When you get invited to taste the first attempt of a new wine maker, and the invite goes on to explain that this virginal wine maker is the porn star Savanna Samson, not only do you show up but, if you plan to write about it, you pray it will have things like a plastic cork and be a big, slutty red out to please everybody. It would also kick butt if it was a little tart.
Sadly, you don't always get what you want. Although Savanna's wine is out to please, it is in no way slutty; it is a perfectly acceptable table wine. At the party, I had it with truffled gnocchi, roasted lamb chops, a proper porcetta, fried meatballs, Parmigiano Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, and seafood risotto. It played well with all of them, even the risotto if you can believe that.
This wine is not austere or fine. I imagine its progress will closely match that of the average porn star, really getting good about 2 years after its premiere but having passed its prime about 6 years in. At this point it is showing youthful cherry, red currants, spices, cedar, coffee and a note of epoxy. Its structure is loose with very little defining acid, an easy quaff for big meals. The New York Times reports it will retail for $38. If that's what you spend on your Tuesday/Wednesday wines, I definitely think it is worth a try. It's a sweet little thing that can take on many foods while still seeming somehow demure.
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